Corrections or enhancements to any of the blog contents would be greatly appreciated. These can be entered as Replies to any given Post, or can be emailed to cwklein@comcast.net, who will edit accordingly.

The entire set of photos and videos related to this blog has now been uploaded to two different sites as follows.  Original photo and video files are also available from cwklein@comcast.net

(A) Shutterfly.  Use this link:  http://calnevumcfiji2011.shutterfly.com/

FOR NERDS: This contains all photos and 10 of the videos (the maximum number of videos Shutterfly accepts without extra charges annually).  The photos have been uploaded to Shutterfly at full original resolution (typically about 2 mb each) but cannot be downloaded at more than about 250 kb and the videos are played back (download not possible) only at very small scale.

(B) Picasa web albums.  Use the following two links shown as pictures, the first for the photos and the second for the videos.

Cal-Nev Bishop’s Connectional UMVIM Trip to Fiji 2011 – Photos

Cal-Nev Bishop’s Connectional UMVIM Trip to Fiji 2011 – Videos

FOR NERDS:  These contain all photos and all videos.  The photos have been uploaded to Picasa web albums at full resolution (typically each about 2 mb) and any photo can be downloaded at full resolution … just select it, go to Actions and choose Download photo.  The videos at original full resolution were 720p mpeg4 (.mp4) files, which Picasa cannot handle.  To “trick” Picasa into accepting them and playing them back, each video was renamed by appending “.mov” to the filename.  They will play back within Picasa web albums at 480p, but cannot be downloaded.

Love to All.

9 – 1030 am – De-Briefing with the Bishop

Bishop Brown leads a meeting to describe our schedule for the day, get impressions and discuss especially the future.  We learn that high-level sources he has met with on the side have all been very positive about our visit, saying that it has been well-timed to help catalyze movement forward for the Church and Government.  We now can work through a mutual cooperation agreement with the Church.  We now can start to evaluate in detail how we might participate in and hold up some of the major projects and initiatives that the Church has been defining for its future.  There is discussion about future channels of communication and protocols.  The Bishop requests Fijian feedback and then from the rest of us and finally offers a summary statement of what the California-Nevada Annual Conference would like to see, moving forward.

1030 am – 130 pm – Free time

Many go gift shopping for friends and family back home.

200 pm – De-briefing with Church Officials

President Tugaue,  General Secretary Wakairatu, Assistant General Secretary Tevita and about 50 others await us at the Nadi Circuit Church where we were welcomed on the 15th.  Bishop Brown re-iterates and elaborates his summary statement and discusses it with the GS; there is good agreement and mutual commitment towards moving forward to work on details.

Rev Tevita apologies on behalf of himself and the organizing committee (himself, Josefa, Livai) for the often strenuous (and tummy-stretching) schedule that we have experienced.  Each visit has been regarded as important and there has been much juggling and adjusting of priorities.  For our various local hosts these visits have been extraordinary occasions.  However, he says, no apologies for mosquito bites; itching and scratching are your own issues. (Your blogger adds for the uninformed: Fiji has no malaria.)

315 pm – Gifts

The General Secretary presents gifts from the Church to us; each is symbolic in many ways that he explains in detail.  For Bishop Brown there is a carved sea-fairing outrigger canoe (takia) with a cross on the sail; a small kava bowl (tanoa) with a cup and; a necktie that is sold by the Men’s Fellowship.  Minnie receives a basket-woven portfolio bag (ruvu) that is used to carry one’s Bible, a Hymnal a notebook and a fan.  There is a Fiji-style fan with her name woven in, and a second fan in a Polynesian style from the GS’s wife.  The other women also receive a basket and fan, the other men a mini-kava bowl and a necktie.

Gifts in exchange are then given (bolts of cloth) and Lekima gives a tabua to the President, who gives it to Josefa to speak the words of appreciation.  A gentleman from the assembly then gives a tabua to the Bishop, who gives it to Luke for acceptance.

Kava is mixed and when Bishop Brown accepts the cup he says moce (“fairwell”), eliciting a mighty laugh and applause from the assembly.  Then kava is served to Luke, the President and Josefa.

The President then leads a short worship service that includes “God be With You ‘Till We Meet Again” (in Fijian).

430 pm – Meal

The lunch that follows is typical of how we have been received by our Fijian hosts.  It is delicious, abundant and varied.  Most of the grand meals and tea services prepared in our honor have probably fed at least 50;  many easily can be estimated at more than 100, some easily more than 200 and the upper end is hard to imagine. (Tea service for 500 anyone?).

The background work of the Fijian women in preparing these meals, serving them and cleaning up has perhaps been inadequately described and lauded in this account.  The kitchen facilities available for preparing these banquets are typically far more modest than an American might assume  There are only a few counters and sinks. Stoves are small.  Rural settings may have no more than a kerosene burner.  Much work is done sitting on the kitchen floor on mats that have been spread out.  During meals many kitchens and preparation areas are wall-to-wall women, platters and pots with barely enough space to tiptoe between them.  Much food is clearly prepared at homes and brought in.  The levels of laughter and animated conversation among those working are notable.  Three cheers many times over!

530 – 11 pm – Departure

We arrive at the airport at about 6, finding a long-long line already checking in for our 10 pm flight.  Air Pacific (slowly) decides to assign a single check-in agent to all of us, but we have to check in individually in order to pay excess luggage fees (mats, kava bowls, other gifts) and the airport’s credit card system link is down.  The agent is very patient with us and we with him.  Present to wish us goodbye are many friends and family as well as officials such as the President, the GS, Rev Te, Ratu Jale, Rev Vaka and others.  The last of us pass check-in at about 900 and our very full flight to Los Angeles leaves on time at 10 11 (Fijitime).

Noon and 6 pm- Arrivals

Having crossed that Dateline again it is still Tuesday when we get to Los Angeles and later San Francisco, mostly slept, wrinkled, a bit sticky and very very Thankful: for God’s Blessings and Grace, for the hospitalities that we have received, for all that we learned, for a sense of having helped and a way forward.  This has just been a start.  Much remains to do in the years before us including, we would hope, more visits to Fiji where there is so much of God’s Love to be found at every turn.

The harbor is base for numerous cruises and ferry services to the many islands of the Mamanuca and Yasawa Groups, which extend 100 miles to the northwest of Nadi.   The are very lightly populated yet host numerous villages.  There are many small resorts that cater to backpackers at one end and people who we don’t know and don’t know us at the other.  (Some of the resorts are Fijian owned and most or all are on land leased from collective Fijian ownership.)

The islands range in size from specks barely above water to perhaps ten square miles.  They are hilly and rugged, of ancient volcanic origin and surrounded by numerous reefs.  There are no roads or infrastructure except for the passenger ferry services and the omnipresent scattered towers that give Fiji its extraordinary level of cell phone service.

Our chartered boat is a huge, motor-powered catamaran.  Exiting the harbor we pass a series of smallish to immense, regal motor yachts and sailing ships that elicit comparisons to James Bond movies and the lives of Saudi Princes; spaceships from some alien, hostile universe!

Our boat is also very slow.  Naviti Island in the Yasawa Group is about 70 miles away and the disadvantage is a 5+ hour-long voyage; not so good for the sea-sick prone.  The advantage is a quiet slowness (no roar, no slam) that can be quite enchanting in the presence of God’s so beautiful handiwork.  The ocean is calm, there is only a light breeze, the front end of the boat is a large open deck with some shade under a sail that has been deployed.  There is a gentle roll.

Naviti Island forks at the northern end to cradle a large bay.  At the southern end of the bay is Sosomo village and our destination is Vunidilo Land, a Church-owned property that once held a small bible school about a mile down-shore from the village. (Want to buy?  The Church would like to sell or lease: 102 acres for F$3,200,000).  The villagers have gathered here, prepared a feast and erected shade for us to sit under.

The entire setting is gorgeous.  Many villagers in their most colorful clothes, some in traditional festive dress (grass skirts, arm bands of palm frond, meke dancers male as warriors and female in patterned dresses and blouses), the palm trees, the adjacent beach, the mountains close-by, the shade constructed of poles and palm fronds and mats on the ground, the table set with the feast, the smiling faces. Seated in chairs are the Bishop, Minnie, President Tugaue and the Ratu, an elderly lady.   Following tradition, the Ratu does not herself speak and later she eats separately from others.

A word about the sevusevu welcoming ceremony and gifting of tabua, yaqona (kava) and mats that follows:  the number of sevusevu that we have received might lead some to think that they are routine or common.  They are not.  Some of the groups that have received us have not hosted an event even remotely of this kind in several years and this all is quite significant.

This sevusevu includes a wrinkle not previously seen.  We have seen the man who serves kava squat to receive the full cup, extend his arms while facing away from the recipient, turn to the recipient, draw his arms in and walk in stately fashion to the recipient.  In this case the man who serves kava to the Bishop performs a short, stately dance as the other men chant.

The meal that follows is notable not only for its usual abundance but also is particularly sweet;  much of the food has just been harvested or caught today.  Grilled fresh lagoon fish (ika), baked larger fish, the roasted pig (immense and part of the sevusevu), kokoda (the Fijian ceviche made with coconut milk and lime juice), lobster, smoked octopus (kuita), palusami (taro leaves stuffed with corned beef), chopped firm clam meat, the cold miti sauce (coconut cream, organs, chillies), the amazing fresh salad made of these crunchy clusters of little round seaweed ‘berries’, taro, cassava and more.

A swim off the beach follows.  Many of our group, many laughing children, scattered additional adults.  A partly-filled water bottle makes for toss and keep away.  Bishop Brown scours the sandy bottom with his toes, finding empty clam shells, glistening white, for Minnie.

All too soon it is time to depart for the long trip back.  We pass Sosomo Village. There is a beautiful sunset, long and slow, gracing rippled clouds above and shimmering grey waters below with pink, orange and gold.  After dark, on the front deck under broken clouds and starts there is spontaneous hymn-singing; in the cabin there is kava, singing with a guitar and some with electronic piano.  Some folk visit.  Others sleep on cushioned benches.  A simple dinner of roasted beef and cassava is served.  At 11 pm we arrive at port and board a bus for the hotel, about 15 minutes away.

All glory be to God, we have been blessed this day and every day on this visit.

The time now spent with Bishop Brown reminds us to mention how extraordinary he has been on this trip.  This means not only his prayers, sermons and other witness; we are seeing also his considerable skills at diplomacy, leading, listening, learning and negotiating.  He is constantly present.  He is constantly attuned to cultural issues of protocol. His wisdom, his faith and his leadership are constantly present.  And his good humor is infectious.

Church assignments this morning are:

• Bishop Warner and party to Narewa
• Santa Rosa to Nawaka
• Trinity to Navoci
• Petaluma to Nawaka Korotabu (meaning “holy city”)
• Centennial to Dratabu
• Temple to Namoli
• Florin to Saunaka
• Palo Alto to Viseisei
• Hayward to Natabua
• San Rafael to Namaka.

1030 am – Namaka Methodist Church

Talatala Rev Sakiusa Vaka of Namaka Methodist Church is Head of the Namaka Circuit (2300 members) of the Nadi Division and also the Talatala of all 11 churches in the Circuit.  The entire Methodist Church of Fiji and Rotuma comprises 55 Divisions and 352 Circuits of 3 to 12 Churches each and a total membership of about 210,000.  Annual apportionments are fixed at F$10 per member.

The Church is located adjacent to the airport, in an expansive neat and clean area of mown grass with scattered large trees, roads and buildings and beautiful views of the distant mountains.  Next door to the sanctuary is a social hall and next door to that is the Talatala’s house.  A nice breeze cools us and there are many broken clouds.  The service is a joint one this morning, with Cawa Methodist Church (visited by Pastor Liza and Chris in 2010) participating.

Alena leads Lotu. Pastor Liza preaches from Luke 5:1-11 and associated themes on relationships and prayer.  She reminds the congregation that Fijians are so very good at relationships,  God is about relationships and God is, in fact, Super Fijian.  She speaks to the children about fishing deep and tells the children about prayer (adults to pay attention, now!) even in hard times and troubled waters when at a loss for words: just rise your hands above your head and just speak to God with your heart.  When you pass through the waters do not be afraid, God will be with you.

Talatala Vaka leads prayer and the Choir, led with special vigor, is characteristically excellent.  After Lotu there is a brief sevusevu in the social hall with the elder men, and then Talatala Vaka invites us to his home for lunch; Pastor Liza, Chris, Alena, two of her sons and two grandchildren.

130 pm until about 330 pm -

Arrivals back at the Mercure, with rest for some, and departures starting at about 315 and extending until about 400 pm for ….

400 pm -  Coronation Church, Lautoka

Lautoka is about 45 minutes north of Nadi by car.  After Suva it is the second city of Fiji (about 45,000), the seat of the sugar and timber industries and a major port.  The parts that we briefly see also include nicely landscaped parks and roadsides. Our fairwell church service (Lotu Cokovata) is at Coronation Church, which is downtown at the edge of a large park.  This may be the largest sanctuary and assembly of our visit.  A rough pew count suggests that about 750 people are present, and of these the the choir is about 150.

All of the important Church officials of our visit either speak or pray to the assembly: President Rev Ametugaue, General Secretary Rev Waqairatu, Rev Tevita.  Emma has the assignment of delivering a Thank You address from all of us to all of the Church of Fiji. Bishop Brown preaches again on Christ’s call to the Apostles, teaching them to fish deeply and surprising them with what they can do.  His sermon peaks and then ends with a quite admonition: “go deep now, live into your call.”  The Choir sings several anthems in addition to the hymns some of which are complex arrangements.  There is a set of traditional pieces said to represent the original south Pacific style, which we have heard sung by the women at some other events.  The service ends with (what else!) the Hallalujah Chorus and during his Benediction President Rev Ame Tugaue suggests, to great laughter and applause, that this choir would win the contest if there were one.

After Lotu we gather in the grassy yard outside.  Children play and adults stroll in the adjacent park in late afternoon sunlight that beams down between the branches of large trees.  There is sevusevu, tea is served, and members of the church entertain us with dances set to praise music and to polynesian music.

800 pm -

Back at the Mercure Hotel, the Bishop leads a debriefing meeting with the Fijian members of our group and the rest of us get to rest.

We gather at the hotel entrance, assorted family members and friends having joined us to say farewell.  Hugs and kisses.  Click-click go the cameras, whirrr go the video recorders.  Vinnie’s daughter Melina from Lelean School finds Chris and Liza (Yea! Click-click!).

Once again we head north on The King’s Road, following the car that carries the Bishop.  Passing Davuilevu we continue on through the tropical rain-soaked lowlands, lush and green with rivers and occasional swamps.  Trees of all sizes and vines are everywhere, many with flowers.  After about 1-1/2 hours we stop for a rest at Korovou (“new village”), which Alena describes as near the sea shore and the take-off point for boat rides to her native island Motoriki.  Snacks are bought (yummy little chicken pies at a bakery, Indian trail mix), the market is enjoyed especially for its displays of fish and mollusks, the restroom facility is appreciated (only about $0.10 US) and we proceed.

From Korovou The King’s Road continues north along the coast, but we turn inland on a newer road that trends northwest.  We climb bit by bit following the winding Wainivula River (a tributary of the Rewa) for about 20 miles.  The terrane is gentle-to-steep hills up to several hundred feet high.  It is now quite rural, there are very few villages and only an occasional cow or a house.  A long stretch of the road is still being paved for the first time and there are numerous small bridges that recently have been constructed yet are not yet connected to road.  The road eventually turns north from the river at a point about 20 miles from the north coast.  The landscape has slowly become dryer and dryer and when we finally come out at the north coast (re-joining The King’s Road) it is rain-shadow-arid tropical.  Nearly brown, grass-covered hills rise steeply from the coastal plain.  This is now sugar cane country, with inhabitants again but more Indian than Native Fijian by about 2:1.

Tavua is at the base of low hills within a wide and deep alluvial plain.  There seems to be more agriculture here than we have seen anywhere else. The high mountains are set back from the ocean by perhaps 20 to 30 miles.

1 pm – Tavua

Arriving in town we are taken first to the Tavua Hotel for a rest, coffee, tea and snacks and introductions to local government officials.  Then our bus takes us downhill and across the highway to Tavualevu (“big Tavua”) where a ceremonial group awaits us on a large lawn in front of a large Methodist Church.  Sitting at the dais are the Bishop, Minnie, Rev Te, and Ratu Jale, who is the high chief of Fijians in Tavua. In addition to ourselves, about 100 look on.  The Bishop prays.  There is an elaborate sevu sevu performed by about 16 men in native dress, with water poured from bamboo poles to make the kava and gift exchanges that include baskets of food and an exceedingly large roasted pig wrapped in palm fronds, and several tabua, to which the Bishop and others respond.

Ratu Jale is well-known to a number of our group, as he returned to Fiji six months ago after living in the Bay Area and being a member of Centennial UMC.  He had been asked to become Ratu, his younger brother (two others deceased) not yet being of age.  At 330 pm with most of the ceremony finished, he speaks, acknowledging that according to protocol he should not be speaking at all.  But he is moved to by the presence of the Bishop and  and asks for release to rejoin the Methodist Church of Fiji.  He also asks for no response because he has spoken out of turn and we also are running more than 2 hours behind schedule.

The ceremony ends with beating of the church drum (lali) and we proceed to Lotu in the church.  Ratu Jale is seated in a large, cloth-draped chair to the side of the chancel.  The Talatala leads, the District Superintendent speaks, the choir sings words of welcome and Rev Linda C responds.  Bishop Brown preaches on Stewards of God’s Mysteries, starting with the example of Paul who, his contemporaries knew, would seem to have been the last person that God would call on and reflecting further on the theme of being called.  Your author wonders whether the Bishop’s topic was coincidental, given the new status given to Ratu Jale.

After lotu, several of us visit a rare sight now in Fiji: close to the church is a traditional lodge house (one large room) not only with thatch and bamboo walls, but also a thatch roof!  The walls and roof seen from the inside are even more beautiful than the outside.

Lunch Dinner starts at 530 pm and extends to almost 730.  Rev Ann blesses the meal.  Crab, chicken, fish, curry, papaya with Fijian ceviche, roots, seaweed, creamed leafy vegetable, even some rice and spaghetti(!).  There is entertainment by a men’s group (well-known throughout Fiji) that sings with guitars and ukelele.  At the end there is an exchange of tabua and kava root.  Ratu Jale is present and kindly visits with members of our group, sharing with us the stresses of his sudden life transition from being independent to having a very defined position socially and the ways in which he has chosen to accept his role.

930 pm – Nadi

We arrive and check-in to the Mercure Hotel, Queen’s Road, checking into nice rooms that overlook a central garden and pool.  To rest, showers and preparations for Church at 10 am.

Bau

“That land of horror and blood” was Dr. Lyth’s description of Bau.  “That deepest hell on earth”  was the term used by Joseph Waterhouse, the first resident missionary on the island.

So begins the Methodist Church brochure about Bau, a 20 acre island located one-half mile from the southeast coast of Viti Levu and about 20 miles north of present-day Suva.  It consisted partly of reclaimed land protected by embankments and when the missionaries came it was residence to about 1500 people, occasionally 3000.  Twenty large war canoes and as many as 200 smaller ones anchored at the stone wharves.  Burials were made under the houses.  There were some 30 idol houses or temples and the religion of the time was described by English-speaking visitors as demanding human sacrifices.  Also: “It was the boast of the Bauans that their ovens were never cool.  When Joseph Waterhouse resided on Viwa, two miles away, he said that the death-drum on Bau could be heard nearly every day.  The victims were dashed head first against the ‘killing stone’, later made into the baptismal font in the Methodist Church on the island.”  The Fijian name actually is “vatu ni bokola” with “vatu” meaning stone and “bokola” meaning someone who is less, lesser or does not count, such as we humans tend to regard our enemies.

The chief of Bau had become recognized as the leading chief of Fiji, although not an unquestioned overlord. His prestige was such that the conversion of Cakobau in 1854 marked the turning point of Fiji’s missionary history.  It was Cakobau’s decision, with the agreement of other chiefs some of whom had rebelled against him, that brought about the voluntary cessation of Fiji to the British crown in 1874. (Tourist guide histories of Fiji attribute Cakobau’s decision to a threat of invasion by Tonga.)

We are coming to Bau to meet Ratu Apeniasa Cakobau, the great great grandson of Cakobau.  Ratu translates to English most closely as Chief and Ratu Cakobau is in many ways the highest in the land.

Until this morning we have seen days of broken clouds, on-and-off breezes and frequently sweat-soaked shirts.  This morning is different.  It is entirely overcast, threatening and windy.  Fog envelops the higher mountains northwest of town.  Our 7 am departure has been postponed, at first to 730 and now to 930, due to a combination of misinformation about the tides (boats to and from Bau cannot depart at lowest ebb) and windy conditions on the sea.  We are told that getting to Bau is not a wind issue, but there had been a plan to go to Viwa as well and that involves open seas.  So there is time at least for breakfast, our usual combination of fruit, cereal, toast and coffee though a few of us order scrambled eggs as well.  At 830 the Bishop holds a meeting for the Clergy.

The trip to Bau takes us past Davuilevu and northward across a flat alluvial plain not far from Nabua school and farm.  The road ends at a embarkation point for open boats with outboard motors that each carry about 8 passengers.  Our three boats travel at different speeds.  The one carrying the Bishop and Minnie travels slowly; ours speeds ahead until, perhaps the boatman suddenly realizes protocol, we slow down and let the Bishop arrive before us; the third and last boat to leave zooms ahead and passes both of us. (Rev Schuyler insists he did not speak to or otherwise bribe the boatman.)

We are greeted on arrival by the Talatala and then rest a few minutes on the veranda of a home at the edge of an elongated grassy field that is bordered on the seaward side by modest  houses and on the inland side by the large church and a large meeting house that was built for the visit of Queen Elizabeth in the 1950′s. 

Right behind the church and meeting house rises the steep-sided central hill.  The grassy field was once occupied by houses but, it is said, Cakobau took a liking to cricket and so had them torn down.  Also along the edge of the field are a huge, magnificent tree and the only temple that remains from pre-Christian times, its steep thatched roof replaced by metal but the stone foundation and wood and thatch walls still intact.

We are taken to the meeting house, which is the first place we have visited with no chairs available; one does not sit in a chair if Ratu Cakobau is seated on the floor.  Bishop Brown is directed to the matted floor directly under a large photograph of the original Cakobau and his left are Ratu Apeniasa and other dignitaries including (or all?) themselves Ratus of lesser stature (effectively each village of Fiji has a Ratu and there are three villages on Bau alone).

There is extended sevusevu, with much kava in very full bowls being passed around to everybody (the first time during this trip).  There are numerous formal greetings passed back and forth, and only then does Ratu Apeniasa speak, welcoming us and explaining the history of Bau; his English is particularly good, accented perhaps by Australia.

Ratu Apeniasa then takes us on an tour of Bau, walking around to the opposite side where his home is, and an adjacent house that had been built for the visit of the Queen.  He apologizes for the absence of this wife and children, who are in Suva during the week.  He shows us the very table upon which Cakobau signed the agreement with the British in 1874.  He then takes us to the Church where the historic baptismal font is mounted on the floor in front of the chancel.  Bishop Brown leads us in prayer.

Outside of the church is a steep staircase that leads to the top of the hill and some of us ascend, to the sound of birds mixed with squealing, laughing children.  The hill top is divided into three areas, one of which holds the elementary school: the kiddos are on the central lawn happily playing some game under the direction of a teacher.  Many of the 150 students come daily by school boat from adjacent islands and the mainland.   The other two divisions of the hilltop bear the Talatala’s house (currently being repaired) and (at the very top) a chiefly burial ground.

Returning to the meeting house we are treated to lunch and then an extended period of formal gift exchanges.  Tabua and cloth from us to the Ratu and tabua and mats received.  At about 4 pm Ratu Apeniasa strolls with us to our departing boats.  School is now out and children have appeared on the cricket pitch.  When they see the Ratu they immediately sit on the ground; he tells the Bishop that sometimes he avoids being seen during rugby games played by the adolescents, because they will interrupt their play to sit on the ground when they see him.

5 pm – Back at our hotel …

We have time for rest and reflection, giving thanks to God for this extraordinary visit.  And then into cars at 6:45 to …

7 pm – Epworth Hall, Farewell Dinner with Church President Tugaue

Another extraordinary banquet, with entertainment by the Kadavu Choir and meke dancers, which represents emigrants to Suva from Kadavu, the third largest island of Fiji. Extended words of thanks and appreciation are given by Bishop Brown, by our Fijian representatives, and by our host.  Tabua, cloth and mats are again exchanged.  The Choir leads the assembly in singing Isa Isa, which is the Fijian song of farewell.

930 pm -

Back at our hotel.  We will depart by bus back towards Nadi at 8 am.

9 am – Davuilevu Theological College

We are in a gorgeous hilly, landscaped setting of the Nausori area, adjacent to the Rewa River about 15 miles north of Suva.  Davuilevu (“large conch shell”) is the principal Methodist College and training institution of the Church.  Director Rev Epineri Vakadewavosa and his wife Titilia are old friends to a number of us, from our few visits to Fiji and their many visits to California.

There is Lotu led by Rev Timoci Nawaciono and with stunning anthem and hymn-singing.  Rev Epineri offers words of welcome, Bishop Brown delivers a sermon and Rev Liza says the closing prayer.  There follows a visit to the Library and ceremonial planting of a hardwood tree, which is blessed by the Bishop.

We next walk up the hill to the dining hall for “morning tea.”  (In this blog morning tea, afternoon tea or any tea should be understood to mean far far more than tea, both in abundance and variety of the offering –  e.g. three or four kinds of fruit, cakes, juice, coconut milk right out of the shell, sandwiches, roti and/or samosas, assorted concoctions make of taro and other starches, tea, coffee – and in care and love.)  Some may note the potential humor, at a theological college, of walking up the hill from Church to the dining hall.  Your suspicions are confirmed: the dining hall is one of the original campus buildings (perhaps the chapel itself) and the sanctuary is newer.

Noon – Methodist Lay Training Center

This is a lay leadership school on the Davuilevu campus,  offering young adults a course of training that can lead to becoming a vakatawa.  Most of the students are on field assignments this week, so the group that is gathered today is only 30~40.  There is opening prayer and  a talk about the Methodist Youth Fellowship program here and throughout the country.  Bishop Brown offers words of support and blessing, speaking of the fishermen who came to Christ after he told them to take their nets and cast them on the other side.  Additional words of welcome and thanks are offered by our hosts, then Rev Te says that we must move on after a brief tour of the facility.  Coconut juice is served.

1 pm – Lelean Memorial School

Lelean is a high school run by the Church and located adjacent to the Davuilevu campus.

The poor Lelean students, they had expected us at 1030 and have been sitting in the hot sun, most of them, since (about) then!  They are gathered in a paved area between two wings of the shoal.  Fans are fanning furiously.  We are garlanded with shell necklaces.   The school Choir sings from Handel’s Messiah (The Glory of the Lord, and with extreme competence, Thank You!).  The Chaplain delivers a Devotion.  There are words of welcome from the Principal and more choral music.  Bishop Brown delivers his fisherman homily for young people but only after introductory remarks that include an allusion to how late we have arrived (monstrous laughter from the assembly).  The Vice Principal delivers a Vote of Thanks.  Rev Linda L-Z delivers a Benediction and Choir closes with Handel’s Hallelujia Chorus (you needn’t wonder: beautiful and mastered!).

Rev Liza, Chris and Alena had looked forward to seeing Vinnie’s daughter Melina at Lelean, having met her in 2010 on several occasions.  In the confusion and crowd after the assembly, Melina finds Alena at least, but sadly Chris and Rev Liza miss her.

2 pm – Baker Hall presentation

The Revd Thomas Baker Memorial Hall, on the Davuilevu campus was constructed during 1910-13 on the site of Baker Memorial College (now Davuilevu) and at the time was one of the grandest assembly halls in Fiji, designed for services but also divisible into three large classroom areas.  Thomas Baker was a well-known missionary who lost his life under circumstances that are not well understood, although they involved some amount of conflict, during a trip into the mountainous interior of Viti Levu in 1867.  In its heyday, Baker Hall was heavily used but it is now in severe disrepair and remodeling the building is a goal of the Church.  Engineering and cost studies have been made and the scope of the project is well-developed, but funds are not yet available.  All of this is explained by our hosts using a computer slide presentation and handouts.

3 pm – Lunch at Lay Training Center

The Lelean student Choir entertains with lively song (mostly in Fijian but some English secular music) as we are served a buffet lunch, Pastor Greg having offered the blessing of the meal.

4 pm – Dilkusha Home

The Director introduces herself and Dilkusha to us, with a few sly jabs about tardiness and waiting (we had been scheduled for about 2:30).

Dilkusha is an orphanage for Indian children that was founded by the Methodist Church many years ago using money donated from the Indian community.  There are 27 – 30 kids here now, although the capacity is 50 to 60; the decline is due to an increase of orphanage facilities in the country.  The youngest is 1 year old.  There are two 3 yr-olds and the oldest are in high school (three are students at Lalean).  We are meeting in a new social hall that was donated three years ago, but the rest of the facility is much older.

After a tour of the facility (mostly old but very clean and maintained) we are take up a steep flight of stairs to the top of the hill on which Dilkusha is located.  At the top is The Sister’s House, with a beautiful view, a nice breeze, and afternoon tea waiting for us on the covered front veranda.

545 pm – Arriving back at our hotel …

the Clergy among us waddle up ride the elevator to the fourth floor for a meeting with Rev Linda C.

630 pm – Pastors and their associates depart to visit portions of the church communities where they preached on Sunday.

Pastor Liza, Alena, Julie and Chris visit with the “Raiwaqa Mature Youth.”  In the 1970s, Alena and her husband Tomu (the late founder to the Fijian congregation at San Rafael) lived in the Raiwaqa neighborhood and worked with youth.  In those days, Raiwaqa was a neighborhood with severe juvenile delinquency and a high crime rate.  It was a community of low cost public housing and many families who had moved to Suva from rural areas.  The community has since stabilized and has a low crime rate.  The “Youth” visited by us are many of the same individuals with whom Alena had worked, plus new friends.  We engage in casual conversation about church, while enjoying snacks.  Later, we are visited by a Police Inspector who has recently made comparative studies of Suva neighborhoods. The change at Raiwaqa compared to 30 years ago has caught his attention and he is in dialog with neighborhoods about these issues and the possibilities of change.  Saki, who is one of the group’s informal spokesmen, says that the church was a main player in turning things around for them.  But it didn’t just start with attending the main church.  Instead, a group of them would meet in a smaller space and invite in people to preach to and guide them.  Some understood quickly.  Others slept or stayed away, but gradually, those who understood were able to bring in the others and they started attending the main church.   Another member notes that Pastor Liza’s words on Sunday, about how John Wesley came down to the level of those afflicted, was very meaningful for them.  Further dialog and reflection follows.  Sake comments that the kind of gathering of adults here tonight is common among them, but in many urban neighborhoods, people have not formed community such as this.

1100 pm – Back at the hotel

Tomorrow will be another big day.  We depart by bus at 7 am to go the the chiefly island of Bau and meet the Chief of all the Chiefs of Fiji.  Bau was the center of political and military power of Fiji at the time of arrival of the first missionaries and remains a site of considerable importance.

PS: it would be wonderful if others were to write up a few words about the communities that they visited, and either post them as replies to this blog, or send them to Chris as an email for posting (cwklein@comcast.net).

Emma and Rev Amy Beth are on a separate mission this morning, having been invited to participate in Youth Day at Nabua (“Nambua”) Division.

830 am – Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Suva

At the Roman Catholic Cathedral in downtown Suva we meet with Archbishop Petero Mataca, who describes the history of the Church in Fiji.  We all introduce ourselves.  Pastor Greg points out that Santa Rosa is in the wine country of California and Archbishop Mataca recalls an Italian proverb, from the four years he lived in Rome, as translated “The water makes you sick, but the wine makes you sin.”

Bishop Brown tells the Archbishop about the purposes of our trip and asks for any advice that can be offered.  The Archbishop speaks of the importance of listening and sharing with honesty and sincerity.  Other ideas and impressions are discussed, including his concern for the status of the broader culture in Fiji in the wake of rural to urban migration.

10 am – The Anglican Diocese of Polynesia

We are welcomed by the Most Revd Dr Winston Halapua and other leaders of the Anglican Church in the Diocese, including the Dean of the Cathedral and his wife the Revd Halapua.  There is brief sevu sevu, for which Luke responds, then there is a short Lotu with readings, prayers and blessing done by Bishop Brown.  Revd Halapua stresses welcome, warmth and the special nature of this visit, the first of its type.  The Order of Worship includes thanks to Jesus for the lives of John and Charles Wesley, “who prayed and preached and sang with people whom their Church ignored.”   The Gospel reading is March 6:30-34 on Compassion for the Crowd.  There is prayer and a hymn.  Most Revd Halapua gives everyone a copy of the book “Vanua: Towards a Fijian Theology of Place” by L.S. Tuwere, which he had a role in helping to publish in 2002.  Bishop Brown offers Blessings and closure of Lotu.

Rev Te then speaks about the purpose of our visit, to make connections and find out how we can share avenues and requests the opportunity for introduction and dialog given, in the words of the Most Revd, “a sense of keenness to know one-another.”  We have been joined by a number of Methodist Church officials and employees from here in Suva and by a number of folk from the Anglican Diocese and so introductions are extensive.

Bishop Brown leads a dialog of questions and answers.  How to be better Pastors to our Polynesian congregants and especially with our Fijian friends, needing to understand the situation in Fiji of the Methodist Church and and how we might assist in offering advice and counsel yet without interfering.  The Most Revd notes that many have been invited to this gathering with the purpose of getting a variety of perspectives.  Comments from the Anglican side emphasize that all processes need to start internally and with a sense of Mission, dialog and prayer.  The answers are abundant in resources that are already present.  The Holy Spirit is available and cannot be assigned elsewhere.  One visit, also, is not enough.

We are blessed with a half hour rest at the hotel, then on to …

1 pm – Lunch at Nabua Division

Samabula East Methodist Church is where Rev Amy Beth and Emma have been all morning.  Rev Amy Beth describes arriving and being asked by the Division Superintendent to preach and then lead a discussion about sex education (!), no holds barred, with 25 youth aged 17 to 24 and mostly male.  Starting with the passage from Luke about casting one’s net wide and deep, as an analogy to committed relationships, she reports having done this with gusto and much participation from the youth.

Class finished, the rest of us arrive.  A block-long grass-covered yard across the street is loaded with running, spinning and laughing children.  There is sevu sevu with kava and a copious and delicious buffet lunch capped by trifle and ice cream as well as a traditional banana pudding with coconut milk. During the meal a woman and two girls perform a polynesian-style dance and the women sing traditional hymns against a regular beat of metal knife and spoon.  Gift-giving follows, donations of cash and of cloth brought from the US, along with giving and receiving of a tambua.  A closing hymn is then sung, with the men and women on different parts and also seated in different parts of the room.  Those of us in the middle are treated to the ultimate stereo of amazing grace.

3 pm – The American Embassy

This visit is open only to Bishop Brown and the Clergy.  Some of the rest of us stay late at Nabua.  Those going to the Embassy may not carry any sort of electronics whatsoever (phones, cameras included), so the van must stop at the hotel and others of those excluded catch a ride there.  Those returning say that the Embassy staff, including the Ambassador herself (now on the job for a total of 5 days) were quite knowledgable, well informed and thoughtful, engaging those present in serious discussion.

Our evening is free for rest and visits with friends.  Your blogger catches up a bit and falls to bed happy and knowing that we all are being graced with love and care.

Ballantine is a boarding school for 300 girls that was founded in 1939 and has produced a number of graduates who now are part of the congregation at San Rafael and elsewhere.

Principal Rev. Colati Ledua greeted us in his office, along with School Talatala Rev Bale.  We gathered in the assembly hall, where 300+ girls led the singing of hymns in English (we being assisted by the projected words), Principal Ledua introduced us and recalled the visit of Rev Liza, Alena and Chris in 2010 and the gifts they brought at that time, sent by the community of many Ballantine graduates (and friends) in the Cal-Nev Conference.  Bishop Brown’s excellent sermon was about the importance of education and believing in oneself.  Tea, fruit and cakes followed for us (and examinations followed for the girls!) and a period of rest.

10 am – President’s Office – The House on the Hill

While we were having tea at Ballentine, Rev Te shared with us the morning’s excitement regarding this visit.  It turned out that we were expecting 10 am while the President’s Office was expecting 9 am.  A visit at 930 was arranged, but only a short one because the Ambassador from Singapore was expected at 10.  Then a call came in, that the Ambassador had to postpone his visit!

The President’s House is a grand building on a hill in a beautiful landscaped setting near the shoreline in southern Suva.  We have the great privilege of meeting with President Ratu Epeli Nailatikau and First Lady Ade Koila Nailatikau (Ratu and Ade are chiefly honorifics).  We meet in the President’s office because the House is undergoing extensive remodeling and renovations.  Our visit is warm and friendly, with conversation and a service of beverage and sandwiches. Afterwards we are accompanied by both the President and First Lady to be photographed with them outside.

Noon – Suva Methodist Primary School – ceremony and morning tea

Suva Methodist was founded as a boy’s school in 1918.  In now serves about 600 children equally divided between boys and girls, in classes 4 – 6.  About 10 students are Indian and the rest native Fijian.

Former Church President Rev Tomasi Kanailagi is here to make introductions.  After savu savu, there is a formal flag ceremony as the kids all sing the national anthem.  We are again dressed with lovely salu salu.  Bishop Brown speaks on the value of education and believing in one’s own self-worth.   Ending his homily, the Bishop asks the women in our group to pass along the rows of students seated in verandas of the two wings of classrooms and remind all that they are children of and loved by God. Several groups of children perform traditional meke dances and tea, fruit, cakes and sandwiches are served.

2 pm – lunch at Kinoya District Church

Kinoya is perhaps 10 miles north of Suva and is one of the Districts of the Church, with about 10 local churches of which this is the seat. Our bus takes most of us directly there, while the Bishop and Ms. Brown and several others stop along the way for scheduled introductions.  A large gathering and lunch awaits us, under the shade of a roof alongside the church.  Kava is served while we wait for the Bishop’s party, which arrives in about 20 minutes.  Sevu sevu is followed by brief words of thanks from the Bishop, and the meal is blessed by Rev Amy Beth.  During the meal there is vigorous and impressive meka dancing by three different groups.  The group shown here is dancing, according to Julie, to words that describe fighting between roosters.

The history of Kinoya is explained: this once was an area of government housing with its share of poverty and crime.  Economic times are still difficult in Kinoya, but the church regards the community as strong and crime is apparently minimal

330 pm – Visit to Navuso High School and Farm

We have come about 16 miles north from Suva, to a very rural location near the Rewa river, where the Church in 1923 purchased 850 acres of flat-lying farm lands and hilly pasture ands (one square mile is 640 acres).  The intent of the purchase was to establish an agricultural school along the lines of such enterprises in the Philippines.  This was successful as an educational and farming enterprise, but it suffered financially during the world-wide Depression and under a debt load that was increasingly difficult to manage.  After nearly being sold in 1946, there was a revival of interest and outside support which by the mid-50s had allowed the school to grow to 200 students.  There are currently 120 students, some 300 milk cows and 120 pigs and fields planted with various crops, students participate in the farming but, overall, the agricultural training component of the education that is offered has been deferred to the idea that students should receive their formal training elsewhere after graduating, and there appears to be a need for new agricultural expertise to help establish another revival.  There is great potential, because Fiji is not producing enough milk to match internal demand, and the farm would like to increase its herds with cattle from New Zealand that are particularly well-adapted to the local conditions.

All of this is explained to us by Farm Director Rev. Malaka Tuikandavu and Principal Timoci Bure, and in a useful brochure.  There is a brief sevu sevu of welcoming and copious, delicious tea and snacks follow.  Outside of the very old and tired church building in which we are meeting, the late afternoon light streaks though gaps in the clouds and highlights the students engaged in games of volleyball and touch rugby (excitingly fast!) on a field that is cradled between three low hills that have school buildings and a new church under construction.

We are back in Suva at 6:15 with the evening free.

 8 am – Service of Holy Communion – Epworth Hall, Centenary Church

Worship Leader and Preacher is Rev. Tuikilakila K. Waqairatu, General Secretary.  Members of the Drodrolagi Tehila (Beautiful/Peaceful Rainbow) Choir (an inter-church organization in Suva) have come to participate, and they have kindly provided with a booklet of the Fijian words to the eight hymns of the hour-long service. (The rest of this service is in English.) Tikiko reads from 1 Corinthians 12:12-31, Paul’s reflection on the parts that make up the whole, and the sermon of Rev. Tuikilakila is on this theme of gifts, family, community, partnership in Mission, the transformation of togetherness.  Bishop Brown leads communion and the service closes with prayer, benediction and a postlude by the Choir.

10 am – 4th Floor Conference Room of the Prime Minister’s Office, Suva

The Prime Minister is traveling to Geneva and 16 of us are met by Permanent Secretary Pio Tikoduadua. His words of welcome are gracious and detailed.  Suva Suva is performed by Lekima, Bishop Brown converses formally with the PS and more casual conversation follows.  The PS is curious about who we are.  At his request each Pastor introduces him/herself and he notes that in 2004 he studied in Monterrey for 6 months, getting his Master’s Degree, and he attended services at San Rafael and elsewhere plus the Fiji Day celebrations.

11:30 am – Epworth Hall at Centenary Church  – Welcoming Ceremony

Church President Rev. Ame Tugaue attending, this is the Ceremony of Ceremonies, including a very traditional and lively suva suva (the kava ceremony) done in traditional dress, followed by vakamalolo (the women’s version is sea sea) in which a line of men seated on the floor performs rapid arm and hand dances accompanied by singing and percussion on a wood drum.  Clearly the faster and more energetic the better, with women (and a few male Pastors from offshore) placing donated bills under decorations and on laps, to hugely raucous hilarity throughout the large and very full room.  Everyone in our group is graced with an elaborate, colorful lei (salu salu).  There is a period of rest in an adjacent conference room, and then …

 1 pm – Lunch in Epworth Hall

Rev. Linda Caldwell joins us, having just arrived by air from ten days in South Korea.  This is the banquet of banquets and a photo or two should suffice.  After the meal, Pastor Greg presents a gift from the United Methodist Women of California to the women of the Methodist Church of Fiji, and Pastor Liza presents a gift from the Fijian congregation   to the Church of Fiji.  These gifts are followed by a whale’s tooth presentation to Pastor Liza and a response from Tikiko.

2:30 pm – Debriefing in Conference Room 

Bishop Brown leads an informal conversation between our group and some Church leaders, about everyone’s experiences and impressions thus far and what we all have learned, what people’s questions are, what is upcoming.  Much of the discussion is related to actual and potential agreements between our two Churches, to understanding and developing protocols and defining needs.

5:30 pm – Evening Rest

Nothing is scheduled for the rest of the day and instead some rest, some go out to visit or eat with Fijian friends and families.  All are grateful for the abundance experienced today, the great love, the understandings developed and developing.